STEPS IN BOOKBINDING

COVERS (Cases)

---

Textblock Laying In Case (showing terms used in textblock and case construction)

---

Construction of Covers:

1. Cut boards for the covers according to the directions given. On one side of the pieces of cardboard, a sheet of paper can be pasted to help prevent the covers from warping after they are made.

2. Cut the material (buckram) for the cover according to the formula given later on and in more detail.

3. Glue the "Backing Strip" of the material vertically to the exact center of the "cover-to-be". This strip of material ("soft red") will form the cushion for the printing of the Title and other Data on the spine of the book.

4. Make the covers using the elastic glue recommended for book covers ("hot hide glue" can be used for covers). Use the formula given for the prescribed hinge space for the book to be covered.

5. Print all Titles and pertinent Data on the backs of the finished covers, using the correct size type and style of type as used on the model book from the library.

1. Before the book is put into its cover, a piece of paper, a little less than three times the width of the back of the book can be pasted on the back of the book and folded three times. This paper will later on, adhere to both the back of the book and the cover, giving a sort of a see through effect when the book is held in a wide open manner. (optional)

   

2. The book is now ready to receive its cover. The paste is applied to the inside of the back portion of the newly made cover which will receive the very back of the book itself ("paste-down" portion of the endsheet). The cover should be tentatively closed around the book to see how it fits. If everything is alright, the book is turned over and the step is repeated. The hinge of the book is formed by using the bone folder to depress the cover material to form the groove of the hinge. Next, the hinge-boards with the metal strips attached are put into position to make the hinge permanent. Place the entire book together with the boards with the metal strips into a C-Clamp, Jorgensen Clamp, or other press, for a period of time sufficient to make a well formed hinge groove for the book.

3. After the hinge groove is quite well formed, a number of books, together with their hinge forming boards can be placed into a large press to allow the newly bound books to dry for a few days under pressure, to make the hinge grooves permanent and to prevent the covers from warping.

4. Take the books out of the hinge stabilizing press, paste the remaining portion of the "fly sheets" in the front and back of the book to the cover and press again for a few days. (This step may be incorporated into the above step for assembling the cover.)

5. Remove the finished, newly bound books from the press, open and free any end sheets that may be stuck to the cover, remove any residual glues, and return them to the library.

A sheet of bristolboard is cut, using the measurements taken above, into front and back "lids" for the cover.

After the "lids" are cut, measurements for the buckram/leather/denim (or other cover material) are taken. "Spine templates" of various widths, width and height spacers are used as aids in this layout.

• Two lids are placed side-by-side with a proper width spine template between.
• A 2.25" spacer/template for additional width needed for overlap/wrap is placed next to this layout. This total width is measured.
• A 2.25" spacer/template is placed at the top of a lid - this measurement is taken for the total height. This give the height and width for the buckram.

A cover is composed of 2-lids (boards), 1-cover material (buckram), and a soft-red spine paper all bound together by an application of hot glue. Turn on the glue pot (use a pre-set timer), assemble your supplies (old newspapers, brushes, "quarter-inch hinge template", scissors, paste, and paper towel. Have the press, two boards, and wax paper ready for pressing the covers immediately after they have been assembled.

With the buckram laid out on top of an open newspaper (to protect the counter from glue and to be used in turning the buckram end-to-end):
1. apply hot glue to the back of the "soft-red" spine strip; position it in place in the center spine area of the buckram (center position indicated by the white wax marks)
2. place the "hinge template" on each side of the positioned/attached soft-red and, using the white wax pencil, mark a guideline for positioning the two lids
3. apply hot glue to the lid area on one side of the buckram and lay a lid in place
4. flip the buckram end-to-end; apply glue, and place the second lid in position
5. clip the four corners of the buckrum to reduce excess material
6. using a bone, fold the 1" flap over the lids (turn-in) and burnish
Place the completed cover sandwiched between two sheets of plywood (protected by waxed paper) and place in a press until the next cover is assembled and ready for the press.

Using the "specifications sheet":

• Determine the font face and point-size to be used in composing the type.
• Assemble the proper color foil (white, gold, or other color)
• Determine the placement and spacing for the
  • title (horizontal or vertical), word break(s), etc.
  • volume number
  • year

Place a template (of the proper width to match the cover's spine area - between the two lids) onto the two pegs of the embosser's work surface. When a cover is placed on the embosser for imprinting, this "anchored" template (nested within the spine opening) will help secure the cover in place throughout the imprinting process.

When the heating element has reached the proper temperature (on the built-in thermometer), the line of font can be secured in place (the fonts will heat very quickly); the font-tray, spine, and foil can be positioned for the first imprint.

Assemble the tools needed: hinge boards, clamps (Jorgensen or "c") or press. Assemble the supplies: white paste/glue, brush, paper towels, and wax papers.

• Place a cover inside-face-up on the counter; lay its volume in place on the back portion of the cover; fold the cover over to check for the proper fit; be sure the tops of the cover and the book are aligned in the same direction and there is a proper 1/4" margin all around.
• With the volume laid in position on the back of the opened cover, apply a coat of paste to the paste-down portion of the end-sheet (top); close the front cover carefully in place - feeling the margins - and press in contact.
• Turn the book over; open the back cover; repeat glue steps above.
• Partially open the book, lay the back cover on the edge of the counter, and, using a folded paper towel, smooth out the air-bubbles between the pasted down end-sheet and cover (cf. illustration 6).
• Place the closed book between two "hinge-boards" - positioning them so that, when clamped, the metal rim will press into the cover just off of the lid. This impression will become the hinge of the bookcover.
• Place in a clamp or press for a couple of days or until the glue is completely dry. (An insufficient drying time will cause covers to "curl" (or, buckle) later on.)